Since one of my ongoing themes at Camera Lucida these days is fashion and art, I have reproduced below a much earlier blog entry on Vogue illustrations. Aubrey Beardsley, a well-known illustrator in his time, produced drawings and illustrations that reminded me of the early Vogue covers from the 1920s. I am not sure if he directly influenced those Vogue illustrators, but when I compare them with his drawings, I am compelled to conclude that he did indeed influence those styles.
This once again shows (me at least) that the early 20th century was infused with art and creativity (see the links to my previous posts on this subject at the end of this one), and painters, illustrators, designers and all kinds of creative professionals constantly borrowed from one another.
We might be heading in that direction in the early 21 century, but I wouldn't hold my breath just yet. Still, one example I ran across is a photographic rendition of actress Nicole Kidman as the American painter John Singer Sargent's Madam X in the October 2010 issue of Vogue. Sargent lived into his seventies until 1925, and thus saw something of the avant-garde.
Kidman's photograph is by fashion photographer Steven Meisel and was originally in the June 1999 issue of Vogue . There is nothing derisive about being called a "fashion photographer" these days. In fact it is something of an honor. There are more interesting fashion photographs now than many other styles of photography.
The early post "The Legacy of Aubrey Beardsley" is reproduced below.
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The Legacy of Aubrey Beardsley
Aubrey Beardsley lived a short life of twenty five years. His drawings, many used to illustrate books and posters, had a sense of foreboding about them, often with androgynous figures with cruel expressions. Kenneth Clark, the art critic and writer says that Beardsley knew about Evil.
(Left, Aubrey Beardsley, The Black Cape)
(Right, Condé Nast Vogue Cover, 1920s)
His many illustrated books included: Oscar Wilde’s play “Salomé”, an art an literary magazine called “The Yellow Book” of which he was the art editor, and Alexander Pope’s “The Rape of the Lock”.
( Left: Aubrey Beardsley's Cover design for Smithers catalogue of rare books)
(Left: Condé Naste Vogue Cover, 1920s)
(Right Aubrey Beardsley, Isolde)
Close to his death (due to tuberculosis) he converted to Catholicism and died at the very end of the nineteenth century.
These Condé Nast Publications for Vogue Magazine reminded me of Beardsley’s illustrations. Most of the Vogue illustrations are from the turn of the twentieth century (1912-15). Beardsley’s beautiful (but disturbing) images have found their true place. Decorating the women he tried so much to put in a favorable light.
(Left: Aubrey Beardsley: La Dame aux Camelias)
(Right: Condé Nast Vogue Cover, 1920s)
(Aubrey Beardsley: The Peacock Skirt)
Previous posts on art and fashion in the early 20th century:
Small Gems at the Art Gallery of Ontario
Fashion and Art: Music's Influence
Lalique and Chanel
Gabriel Yared's Soundtrack for Coco and Igor
Reliving the 1920s through Perfume
Chanel's Concoctions: Perfume and Culture