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John Galliano designs couture for Christian Dior. He is one of the most eccentric, yet also one of the most talented designers out there. His clothes are often complex pieces, with intricate tailoring and superior design. But, his strategy is simple. He copies (I’m sure he prefers “borrows”) from various periods and traditions, and brings those elaborate fashions into our modern era, with a few twists and tweaks.
Last year, he revived Vermeer’s Holland in his brilliant collection. Although I thought the clothes were unwearable, but beautiful – almost like theatrical costumes, upon reflection, I think some could be mildly adjusted and worn at formal functions.
But, with Galliano, it is always hits and misses. He experiments with each new era he discovers, and tries to bring his own style into the clothes. This year, for his Fall/Winter 2010, he scored higher with the misses while trying to channel Russian folklore. Fashion designers are expected to produce a complete line of unique clothes for each season – Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer. Most designers overcome this obstacle by trimming down and over-simplifying their clothes. Not so Galliano. He goes all the way, every time. This must take its toll on his imagination, which is why I think his Fall/Winter 2010 is his weakest (and I hate to say his ugliest) so far.
I don’t envy contemporary fashion designers. Throughout history, fashion has had a grace period of several years to decades before it organically transforms into something else. Now, designers have six months! And Galliano surpasses all of them in his brave attempts at short-notice, dramatic changes.
One final thing about Galliano. He never gets the faces of his models right. I won’t delve into his reasons why, but unfortunately they are an odd mixture of dolls and prostitutes. But I still give Galliano a pass. I don’t think he’ll really revolutionize fashion, and give us something we can wear for four to five years (what a concept!), but he has the right idea to hold on to the superior qualities and styles of the past while trying to put his modern stamp on them.
